Last week I walked another section of the South West Coast Path. Back in 2021 just as we were emerging from lockdown, my friend Jill and I walked from St Ives to Lands End. Last year, Hayle to Newquay. Last week we walked from Minehead, the start of the South-West Coast Path, to Coombe Martin. A distance of 36 miles.

Back in 2021 I was very naive as to what walking along a coastal path would entail. I envisaged a leisurely stroll. I was wrong. My first introduction was brutal. The 6 miles between St Ives and Zennor are designated severe’ by the South West Coast Path Association.mBy the time I dragged myself into the B & B my body felt broken. Somehow I got through the next 19 miles to Lands End.

Last year felt a little easier but Sally’s Bottom was a memorable descent and ascent.

This year I felt prepared although I wasn’t looking forward to the heat that was being forecast.

We travelled down to Minehead on the Monday. Unfortunately, Minehead doesn’t have its own railway station so we needed to jump on a bus at Taunton. It seemed a totally inadequate service as there were a good number of adults, children and luggage heading for Butlins in Minehead. But we squeezed on. An hour or so later we had dropped off our rucksacks at the B& B and were enjoying a pint, dinner, a walk on the beach and a rather large ice-cream.

The next morning we set off. The path between Minehead and Porlock is designated ‘moderate – strenuous’. It was going to be our shortest walk of the 3 days, just 9 miles.

It was a lovely walk. The sun was out but there was a refreshing breeze. There was a good mix of terrain. Woods, moorland and cliffs. We took the ‘Rugged Path’ option as although a little longer it offered ‘much better sea views’. The highlight was getting up close to the Exmoor ponies. A close second was an ice cold Diet Coke and a slice of homemade Victoria sponge in Kitnors Kitchen in Bossington, A quintessential English village.

We arrived in Porlock at 3.30pm. After dropping off our rucksacks we walked across the marsh and onto the ‘beach’. Not the sort of beach you would want to lay your beach towel as it is made up of large (head sized) stones. Walking on it is difficult. But the view is outstanding.

The second day we were walking 12 miles (allegedly) to Lyndon. The walk is designated as ‘moderate, strenuous in parts’. The walk is mainly through woods. The path has been redirected in a couple of places due to landslides which I suspect make it slightly longer. And whilst it kept us out of the direct sunlight, which was welcome, it was a little boring. Glimpses of the sea were few and far between. The highlight was visiting Culbone Church, said to be the smallest parish church in England. It was certainly very dinky. No detour is needed to visit it as it sits adjacent to the path. 

One of the frustrating things about walking this section of the path is the signage. Whilst it keeps you on track the miles to your next destination must be inaccurate on some of them. For example, we got to 4 miles outside Lynmouth, but 30-45 minutes later we were still at 4 miles. This is so disheartening when you are starting to feel fatigued. 

2 miles outside of Lyndon we stopped to have a drink, a large Diet Coke, in a pub. A bit of a novelty. You don’t often come across a pub so close to the path. And then those final 2 miles which felt never ending. My left heel was starting to feel a little sore and my legs ached. I don’t think I’d experienced this before. On reflection it was due to the hardness of the ground, dried out by the heat.

The walk was complete, but we had yet to locate our B & B. And Google maps was telling us that it was 15 minutes away. Fortunately, we managed to get on the fununccular before it closed at 6pm. 

I’d never been to Lynton before. It is delightful. Bespoke shops and cafes. Certainly a place I’d like to return to.

What was a bit of a shock was my slightly sore heel was revealed to be a blister, the size of a 50 pence piece filled with blood. I’d worn the same boots for hundreds of miles. As well as the South-West Coast Path I’ve climbed the highest mountains in England, Scotland, Wales and Ireland without an issue. So this was a bit of a shock and was probably down to the heat making my feet sweaty. Hiking wisdom suggests ‘air your feet at lunchtime, keep them clean and change your socks regularly and ‘if you feel any hot spots stop immediately and apply a few strips of zinc oxide tape’. Live and learn.

Our final day was going to be our longest day as it was another 13miles on a ‘strenuous’ path. As a precaution we looked at where we could pick up the coastal bus if my foot got too painful. But with a blister plaster giving it some protection it didn’t feel too bad so off we went with every intention to complete it. 

In some guides this section of the walk is allocated two days. It was fairly challenging. A number of steep ascents that tested the heart and lungs and descents that tested the knees and stability. The path, however, was diverse. Woods, cliffs, waterfalls, moorland and the beautiful views. The signage proved just as frustrating. 

As the day went on I had to dig deep. My foot was sore, it was hot and my shoulders were starting to ache from the weight of my rucksack. I needed to put one foot in front of another. I must have zoned out as I nearly stepped on an adder basking in the sun. I screamed and jumped back, convinced it was going to strike. But it just slivered off into the undergrowth. 

The final 2 miles includes an ascent up the Great Hangman, the highest cliff on mainland Britain at 1043 ft. And if you go up there is always a down. This one was particularly tough. The last stretch consisted of steps (challenging on the knees) overgrown by nettles. We were both wearing shorts so the contact with the nettles was uncomfortable to say the least.

We had arrived into Coombe Martin but Google maps informed us that we had another 0.7 miles of walking, uphill, to our B & B. The longest 0.7 mile of my life. It was hot, my body hurt and I was exhausted. Fortunately, the B & B had a restaurant so we didn’t have to venture out again. After a shower, beer and food I started to feel human again.

So another section of the South-West Coast Path ticked off. We have now walked 124 miles of its 630 mile length. We have calculated that it this rate it will take us another 14 years to complete so we are considering doing an extra day next year and taking a day off in the middle. A chance to be a tourist as well as a walker.